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HOW TO REPLACE CUSHION CLOTH...

1. Prepare rails

Remove rails from table.

Carefully remove old feather strips and save for re-use.

2. Install Feather Strips

A. With rail face up, place new cloth on rail with playing surface down. Center cloth on rail, with approximately 4" of cloth at each end and 1/2" of cloth beyond the feather strip slot.

B. For corner pockets, tap feather strip in place except for 3" at each end. Start approximately 2" from end of feather strip and pull cloth toward rubber cushion until the edge of the cloth is approximately 3/4" from the end of the feather strip. Tap feather strip in place.

C. For side pockets, start approximately 3" from end of rail and pull cloth toward rubber cushion until the edge of the cloth is approximately 1/2" from the end of the feather strip. Tap feather strip in place.

D. Pull cloth tight and tap feather strip in place, then trim cloth along cushion side of feather strip. Fold cloth over cushion and tap full length of feather strip flush with rail cap.

NOTE: IF FEATHER STRIPS ARE LOOSE ADD A STRIP OF MASKING TAPE THE FULL LENGTH OF STRIP.

3. Staple Cloth

A. Pull cloth tightly downward and staple with four staples along bottom of rail. Pull cloth tightly over end of rail and staple with three staples in groove back of cushion reinforcing pad.

B. For side pockets, stretch cloth firmly over nose of cushion toward the bottom without distorting cushion shape. Pull cloth tightly toward side pocket before tacking. Staple cloth to rail bottom approximately 1" from pocket opening.

C. Snip cloth at nose and pull small strip down to groove. Staple in place as shown. Then snip (or fold) excess cloth leaving enough for small fold at the top as shown

D. Hold small fold at top in place, then fold entire piece over. Staple at bottom of rail and at groove with three staples each. Stretch balance of cloth tightly over cushion and staple at bottom of rail, starting at the center, and working toward the ends. Space staples about 1" apart. Be sure cloth is snug, but not tight enough to after shape of the cushion.

E. Trim excess cloth from rail. Be sure at least 1/4" of cloth remains after trimming.

HOW TO INSTALL POOL TABLE FELT...

A.

1. Lay the bed cloth over top of slate, play side up. Leave only enough cloth at head end and left to permit tracking, leaving balance of the cloth hanging on the foot end and right side. Staple cloth securely to slate frame at (1) with 4 staples approximately 1" apart.

2. Stretch cloth across the table and staple securely at (2) again using 4 staples as indicated above.

(Four staples recommended for stretch.)

B.

3. Stretch cloth from (1) to (3) and tack securely, maintaining proper margin on the left side of the table.

4. Stretching cloth across table from (3) and pulling from (2), tack cloth at (4).

C.

5. On left side, stretch cloth tightly from (1) toward side pocket opening and tack securely at (5).

6. Repeat operation 5, stretching cloth from (3) and tacking at (6).

7. On right side of table, grasp cloth firmly, stretch across table from (5) and toward side pocket from (2) and tack at (7).

8. Repeat operation 7, stretching cloth from (6) and toward side pocket from (4) and tack at (8).

D.

9. At (9), cut a short slit in cloth at edge centered with side pocket opening. Grasp cloth firmly above this slit, pull cloth into side pocket opening and tack to undercut of slate frame. Complete tacking of cloth to side pocket opening, making sure that cloth is tacked to undercut of slate frame.

10. Stretching cloth tightly across the table from (9) repeat the above operation at (10). Be sure to tack cloth to undercut of slate frame.

E.

11. At Head End of table, tack cloth at (11), holding the proper margin.

12. Pull cloth from (11) toward (12) and tack securely, holding proper margin.

13. Stretch cloth firmly from (11) to Foot End of table and tack at (13).

14. Stretch cloth tightly from (12) and (13) toward (14) and tack securely.

F.

15. Tack all of Left Side on 3" centers holding to proper margin (15).

16. Tack balance of Head End on 3" centers holding the proper margin (16).

17. Stretch cloth tightly toward Foot End of table, tacking on 3" centers all the way across (17).

18. Stretch cloth tightly across table to Right Side, tacking on 3" centers all the way across (18).

G.

19. Stretch cloth into corner pocket openings and tack to undercut of slate frame (19).

20. Cut holes in cloth at rail bolt locations (20).

21. Trim off excess cloth with a sharp knife (21).

NOTE: When installing cloth on carom tables, eliminate operations No. 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, and 19. Otherwise follow same procedure as outlined above. Occasionally cloth will stretch, leaving wrinkles at the pockets. To re-tighten, remove only one end rail and one side rail. Pull cloth taut, and re-tack along the open end and side to restore original tightness.

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DIFFERENCE IN POOL TABLE FELT OR CLOTH...

Pool table cloth — also sometimes called “pool table felt”...for standard American pool games is made from a combination of wool and nylon, or wool and polyester. It is the way the cloth is woven, the quality of the wool, and the manufacturing process that separates different brands and styles of cloth for a pool table.

Pool table cloth is generally referred to as either woolen or worsted cloth. These are two common types of wool yarn and both have specific characteristics that make them unique.

The most common type of pool table felt is woolen cloth.

This is the "felt" than many people are familiar with. It is usually thick and heavy, comprised of at least 60% wool, and has that familiar "felt" feel when you touch it.

It is considerably less expensive, and most commonly found on home pool tables and on coin-operated tables that you find in many bars and recreational facilities. Billiard balls will generally roll much slower on woolen cloth.

Pilling, the shedding of the cloth into tiny little fuzzy bits, is common with this type of cloth, and therefore not allowed for use in any WPA sanctioned tournament. This type of cloth is usually recommended for casual play situations.

The second type of pool table cloth is made from worsted wool.

This isn't "felt" at all, and feels more like a woven suit when you handle it. When you look closely, you can even see that actual weaves in the cloth.

Worsted cloth is used primarily in professional tournaments, in pool rooms that host league and tournament play, and by discerning home owners looking for a high quality billiards gaming experience.

Worsted cloth is also referred to as speed cloth, since billiard balls will roll much faster on worsted cloth as compared to woolen cloth.

Because of a shearing and milling process used to produce the optimum playing surface, there is an "upside" and a "downside" to many brands of worsted cloth, with the down side being fuzzier than the side you will play on.

Worsted cloth generally doesn't "pill" like a woolen cloth will.

Because worsted pool table cloth is generally made from the best quality combed wool found in the world, and manufactured on highly specialized machinery built specifically to produce top quality billiards cloth, it is usually much more expensive than its woolen counterpart, but also delivers a much higher level of response for more consistent and accurate play.

All styles of pool table cloth will eventually show signs of use.

The most common are small white marks called burns (or bruises) that are a result of the heat produced from the friction of synthetic billiard balls burning the nylon or polyester content of cloth.

The use of a "break pad" can help slow these burns, but will not prevent them entirely.

Burns and bruises, in and of themselves, are more aesthetic in the effect as they do not generally affect the actual playability of the cloth. In some brands of cloth however, these burns and bruises can develop into holes that will have an affect on how the cloth plays.

Picks and divots, most commonly found in worsted cloth, will also have a great affect on the playability of cloth since they can affect the roll of a ball.

Recovering your pool table is subjective, and dependent upon how often you play, how bothered you may be with any burns, bruises, picks, divots, and holes there are in your current cloth, and how much you want to invest in replacing it.

Choosing cloth for your table should be dictated by your budget and playing goals.

If you are a serious league/tournament player or simply want a premium playing experience for your billiards game room, we recommend buying a worsted cloth like these we offer from Strachan - SUPERPRO, ARTSCAPE,NCAA

For more casual players, you will want to select a woolen blend like CHAMPIONSHIP INVITATIONAL pool table felt.

There are other blends of cloth not very common in the  market.

Snooker cloth is commonly referred to as "nap" cloth, meaning it is directional and the fibers of the cloth point in one direction. If you run your hand along the cloth towards the top of the table it feels smooth, however when you rub your hand in the opposite direction it feels rough. It is thick, heavy, and made from 100% wool.

Carom cloth is usually a worsted cloth, but made even thinner to facilitate even more speed for the larger table and numerous bank shots required to score.

There are even some cloths being made that are produced from 100% polyester. We generally recommend not purchasing these for any use other than outdoor pool table as they are not made to billiard play specifications and have a tendency to wear out much quicker than cloth made specifically for use on billiard tables.

POCKET BILLIARDS..

Pool, also more formally known as pocket billiards or pool billiards , is the family of cue sports and games played on a pool table having six receptacles called pockets along the rails, into which balls are deposited as the main goal of play. An obsolete term for pool is six-pocket.

There are hundreds of pool games. Some of the more well known include eight-ball (and the variant blackball), nine-ball (with variants ten-ball and seven-ball), straight pool, one-pocket and bank pool.

There are also hybrid games combining aspects of both pool and carom billiards, such as american four ball billiards, cowboy pool, and bottle pool

EIGHT-BALL:

In the United States, the most commonly played game is eight-ball. The goal of eight-ball, which is played with a full rack of fifteen balls and the cue ball, is to claim a suit (commonly stripes or solids in the US, and reds or yellows in the UK), pocket all of them, then legally pocket the 8 ball, while denying one's opponent opportunities to do the same with their suit, and without sinking the 8 ball early by accident. In the United Kingdom the game is commonly played in pubs, and it is competitively played in leagues on both sides of the Atlantic. The most prestigious tournaments including the World Open are sponsored and sanctioned by the International Pool Tour. Rules vary widely from place to place (and between continents to such an extent that British-style eight ball pool/blackpool is properly regarded as a separate game in its own right). Pool halls in North America are increasingly settling upon the world pool billiard association International Standardized Rules. But tavern eight-ball (also known as "bar pool"), typically played on smaller, coin-operated tables and in a "winner keeps the table" manner, can differ significantly even between two venues in the same city. The growth of local, regional and national amateur leagues may alleviate this confusion eventually.

NINE-BALL:

Nine-ball uses only the 1 through 9 balls and cue ball. It is a rotation game: The player at the table must make legal contact with the lowest numbered ball on the table or a foul is called. The game is won by legally pocketing the nine ball. Nine-ball is the predominant professional game, though as of 2006–2008 there have been some suggestions that this may change, in favor of ten ball. There are many local and regional tours and tournaments that are contested with nine-ball. The (WPA) and its American affiliate, the  (BCA), publish the World Standardized Rules. The European professional circuit has instituted rules changes to make it more difficult to achieve a legal break shot.

The largest nine-ball tournaments are the independent U.S open nine ball championship and the world nine ball championship for men and women. Male professionals have a rather fragmented schedule of professional nine-ball tournaments. The  (UPA) has been the most dominant association of the 1990s and 2000s. A hotly contested event is the annual mosconi cup, which pits invitational European and U.S. teams against each other in one-on-one and scoth doubles nine-ball matches over a period of several days. The Mosconi Cup games are played under the more stringent European rules, as of 2007.

TO BE CONTINUED...

SNOOKER/POOL/BILLIARDS CUE CHALK...

Chalk is applied to the tip of the cue stick, ideally before every shot, to increase the tip's friction coefficient so that when it impacts the cue ball on a non-center hit, no miscue (unintentional slippage between the cue tip and the struck ball) occurs. Cue tip chalk is not actually the substance typically referred to as "chalk" (generally calcium carbonate), but any of several proprietary compounds, with a silicate base. It was around the time of the Industrial Revolution that newer compounds formed that provided better grip for the ball. This is when the English began to experiment with side spin or applying curl to the ball. This was shortly introduced to the American players and is how the term "putting English on the ball" came to be. "Chalk" may also refer to a cone of fine, white hand chalk; like talc (talcum powder) it can be used to reduce friction between the cue and bridge hand during shooting, for a smoother stroke. Some brands of hand chalk actually are made of compressed talc. (Tip chalk is not used for this purpose because it is abrasive, hand-staining and difficult to apply.) Many players prefer a slick pool glove over hand chalk or talc because of the messiness of these powders; buildup of particles on the cloth will affect ball behavior and necessitate more-frequent cloth cleaning.

Cue tip chalk (invented in its modern form by straight rail billiard pro william A.spinks and chemist william hoskins in 1897) is made by crushing silica and the abrasive substance corundum or aloxite (aluminium oxide),into a powder. It is combined with dye (originally and most commonly green or blue-green, like traditional billiard cloth, but available today, like the cloth, in many colours) and a binder (glue). Each manufacturer's brand has different qualities, which can significantly affect play. High humidity can also impair the effectiveness of chalk. Harder, drier compounds are generally considered superior by most players.

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HISTORY OF BILLIARDS...

The History of billiards is long and very rich. The game has been played by kings and commoners, presidents, mental patients, ladies, gentlemen, and hustlers alike. It evolved from a lawn game similar to the croquet played some-time during the 15th century in Northern Europe and probably in France. Play moved indoors to a wooden table with green cloth to simulate grass, and a simple border was placed around the edges. The balls were shoved, rather than struck, with wooden sticks called "maces." The term "billiard" is derived from French, either from the word "billart", one of the wooden sticks, or "bille", a ball.

Most of our information about early billiards comes from accounts of playing by royalty and other nobles. It has been know as the "Noble Game of Billiards" since the early 1800’s but there is evidence that people from all walks of life played the game since its inception. In 1600, the game was familiar enough to the public that Shakespeare mentioned it in Antony and Cleopatra. Seventy-five years later, the first book of billiards rules remarked of England that there were few "few Tones of note therein which hath not a publick Billiard-Table."

The cue stick was developed in the late 1600’s. When the ball lay near a rail, the mace was very inconvenient to use because of its large head. In such a case, the players would turn the mace around and use its handle to strike the ball. The handle was called a "queue" meaning "tail" from which we get the word "cue." For a long time only men were allowed to use the cue; women were forced to use the mace because it was felt they were more likely to rip the cloth with the shaper cue.

Tables originally had flat walls for rails and their only function was to keep the balls from falling off. They resembled river banks and even used to be called "banks". Players discovered that balls could bounce off the rails and began deliberately aiming at them. Thus a "bank shot" is one in which a ball is made to rebound from a cushion as part of the shot.

Billiard equipment improved rapidly in England after 1800, largely because of the Industrial Revolution. Chalk was used to increase friction between the ball and the cue stick even before cues had tips. The leather cue tip, with which a player can apply side-spin to the ball, was perfected by 1823. Visitors from England showed Americans how use spin, which explains why it is called "English" in the United States but nowhere else. (The British themselves refer to it as "side".) The two-piece cue arrived in 1829. Slate became popular as a material for table beds around 1835. Goodyear discovered vulcanization of rubber in 1839 and by 1845 it was used to make billiard cushions. A two-to-one ratio of length to width became standard in the 18th century. Before then, there were no fixed table dimensions. By 1850, the billiard table had essentially evolved into its current form.

The dominant billiard game in Britain from about 1770 until the 1920’s was English Billiards, played with three balls and six pockets on a large rectangular table. The British billiard tradition is carried on today primarily through the game of snooker, a complex and colorful game combining offensive and defensive aspects and played on the same equipment as English Billiards but with 22 balls instead of three. The British appetite for snooker is approached only by the American passion for baseball; it is possible to see a snooker competition every day in Britain.

The dominant American billiard game until the 1870’s was American Four-Ball Billiards, usually played on a large (11 or 12-foot), four-pocket table with four balls - two white and two red. It was a direct extension English Billiards. Points were scored by pocketing balls, scratching the cue ball, or by making caroms on two or three balls. A "carom" is the act of hitting two object balls with the cue ball in one stroke. With many balls, there were many different ways of scoring and it was possible to make up to 13 pints on a single shot. American Four-Ball produced two offspring, both of which surpassed it in popularity by the 1870’s. One, simple caroms played with three balls on a pocketless table, is something known as "Straight rail", the forerunner of all carom games. The other popular game was American Fifteen-Ball Pool, the predecessor of modern pocket billiards.

The word "pool" means a collective bet, or ante. Many non-billiard games, such as poker, involve a pool but it was to pocket billiards that the name became attached. The term "poolroom" now means a place where pool is played, but in the 19th century a poolroom was a betting parlor for horse racing. Pool tables were installed so patrons could pass time between races. The two became connected in the public mind, but the unsavory connotation of "poolroom" came from the betting that took place there, not from billiards.

Fifteen-Ball Pool was played with 15 object balls, numbered 1 through 15. For sinking a ball, the player received a number of points equal to the value of the ball. The sum of the ball values in a rack is 120, so the first player who received more than half the total, or 61, was the winner. This game, also called "61-Pool" was used in the first American championship pool tournament held in 1878 and won by Cyrille Dion, a Canadian. In 1888, it was thought more fair to count the number of balls pocketed by a player and not their numerical value. Thus, Continuous Pool replaced Fifteen-Ball Pool as the championship game. The player who sank the last ball of a rack would break the next rack and his point total would be kept "continuously" from one rack to the next.

Eight-Ball was invented shortly after 1900; Straight Pool followed in 1910. Nine-Ball seems to have developed around 1920.

While the term "billiards" refers to all games played on a billiard table, with or without pockets, some people take billiards to mean carom games only and use pool for pocket games. Through the 1930’s, both pool and billiards, particularly three-cushion billiards, shared the spotlight.

From 1878 until 1956, pool and billiard championship tournaments were held almost annually, with one-on-one challenge matches filling the remaining months. At times, including during the Civil War, billiard results received wider coverage than war news. Players were so renowned that cigarette cards were issued featuring them. Pool went to war several times as a popular recreation for the troops. Professional players toured military posts giving exhibitions; some even worked in the defense Industry. But the game had more trouble emerging from World War II than it had getting into it. Returning soldiers were in a mood to buy houses and build careers, and the charm of an afternoon spent at the pool table was a thing of the past. Room after room closed quietly and by the end of the 1950’s it looked as though the game might pass into oblivion.

Billiards was revived by two electrifying events, one in 1961, the other in 1986. The first was the release of the movie, "The Hustler". The black-and-white film depicted the dark life of a pool hustler with Paul Newman in the title role. New rooms opened all over the country and for the remainder of the 60’s pool flourished until social concerns, the Vietnam War, and a desire for outdoor coeducational activities led to a decline in billiard interest. In 1986, "The Color of Money", the sequel to "The Hustler" with Paul Newman in the same role and Tom Cruise as an up-and-coming professional, brought the excitement of pool to a new generation. The result was the opening of "upscale" rooms catering to people whose senses would have been offended by the old rooms if they had ever seen them. This trend began slowly in 1987 and has since surged.

In the 1920’s, the poolroom was an environment in which men gathered to loiter, smoke, fight, bet, and play. The rooms of today bear no resemblance to those of the earlier times. Until very recently, billiards was completely dominated by men. The atmosphere of the poolroom was very forbidding and women had trouble being accepted there. Nonetheless, women have been enthusiastic players since the game was brought up from the ground in the 15th century. For over 200 hundred years, women of fashion have played the game. In the past, it was very difficult for a woman to develop billiard skills because male players, her family, and friends usually did not support her efforts and it was not easy to find experienced female instructors or coaches. As these situations have changed, and continue to change, we can expect women to equal men in ability and take the game to new heights.