Saturday, 24 February 2018
Friday, 23 February 2018
HOW TO REPLACE CUSHION CLOTH...
1. Prepare rails
Remove rails from table.
Carefully remove old feather strips and save for re-use.
2. Install Feather Strips
A. With rail face up, place new cloth on rail with playing surface down. Center cloth on rail, with approximately 4" of cloth at each end and 1/2" of cloth beyond the feather strip slot.
B. For corner pockets, tap feather strip in place except for 3" at each end. Start approximately 2" from end of feather strip and pull cloth toward rubber cushion until the edge of the cloth is approximately 3/4" from the end of the feather strip. Tap feather strip in place.
C. For side pockets, start approximately 3" from end of rail and pull cloth toward rubber cushion until the edge of the cloth is approximately 1/2" from the end of the feather strip. Tap feather strip in place.
D. Pull cloth tight and tap feather strip in place, then trim cloth along cushion side of feather strip. Fold cloth over cushion and tap full length of feather strip flush with rail cap.
NOTE: IF FEATHER STRIPS ARE LOOSE ADD A STRIP OF MASKING TAPE THE FULL LENGTH OF STRIP.
3. Staple Cloth
A. Pull cloth tightly downward and staple with four staples along bottom of rail. Pull cloth tightly over end of rail and staple with three staples in groove back of cushion reinforcing pad.
B. For side pockets, stretch cloth firmly over nose of cushion toward the bottom without distorting cushion shape. Pull cloth tightly toward side pocket before tacking. Staple cloth to rail bottom approximately 1" from pocket opening.
C. Snip cloth at nose and pull small strip down to groove. Staple in place as shown. Then snip (or fold) excess cloth leaving enough for small fold at the top as shown
D. Hold small fold at top in place, then fold entire piece over. Staple at bottom of rail and at groove with three staples each. Stretch balance of cloth tightly over cushion and staple at bottom of rail, starting at the center, and working toward the ends. Space staples about 1" apart. Be sure cloth is snug, but not tight enough to after shape of the cushion.
E. Trim excess cloth from rail. Be sure at least 1/4" of cloth remains after trimming.
Thursday, 22 February 2018
HOW TO INSTALL POOL TABLE FELT...
A.
1. Lay the bed cloth over top of slate, play side up. Leave only enough cloth at head end and left to permit tracking, leaving balance of the cloth hanging on the foot end and right side. Staple cloth securely to slate frame at (1) with 4 staples approximately 1" apart.
2. Stretch cloth across the table and staple securely at (2) again using 4 staples as indicated above.
(Four staples recommended for stretch.)
B.
3. Stretch cloth from (1) to (3) and tack securely, maintaining proper margin on the left side of the table.
4. Stretching cloth across table from (3) and pulling from (2), tack cloth at (4).
C.
5. On left side, stretch cloth tightly from (1) toward side pocket opening and tack securely at (5).
6. Repeat operation 5, stretching cloth from (3) and tacking at (6).
7. On right side of table, grasp cloth firmly, stretch across table from (5) and toward side pocket from (2) and tack at (7).
8. Repeat operation 7, stretching cloth from (6) and toward side pocket from (4) and tack at (8).
D.
9. At (9), cut a short slit in cloth at edge centered with side pocket opening. Grasp cloth firmly above this slit, pull cloth into side pocket opening and tack to undercut of slate frame. Complete tacking of cloth to side pocket opening, making sure that cloth is tacked to undercut of slate frame.
10. Stretching cloth tightly across the table from (9) repeat the above operation at (10). Be sure to tack cloth to undercut of slate frame.
E.
11. At Head End of table, tack cloth at (11), holding the proper margin.
12. Pull cloth from (11) toward (12) and tack securely, holding proper margin.
13. Stretch cloth firmly from (11) to Foot End of table and tack at (13).
14. Stretch cloth tightly from (12) and (13) toward (14) and tack securely.
F.
15. Tack all of Left Side on 3" centers holding to proper margin (15).
16. Tack balance of Head End on 3" centers holding the proper margin (16).
17. Stretch cloth tightly toward Foot End of table, tacking on 3" centers all the way across (17).
18. Stretch cloth tightly across table to Right Side, tacking on 3" centers all the way across (18).
G.
19. Stretch cloth into corner pocket openings and tack to undercut of slate frame (19).
20. Cut holes in cloth at rail bolt locations (20).
21. Trim off excess cloth with a sharp knife (21).
NOTE: When installing cloth on carom tables, eliminate operations No. 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, and 19. Otherwise follow same procedure as outlined above. Occasionally cloth will stretch, leaving wrinkles at the pockets. To re-tighten, remove only one end rail and one side rail. Pull cloth taut, and re-tack along the open end and side to restore original tightness.
Monday, 19 February 2018
Saturday, 17 February 2018
DIFFERENCE IN POOL TABLE FELT OR CLOTH...
Pool table cloth — also sometimes called “pool table felt”...for standard American pool games is made from a combination of wool and nylon, or wool and polyester. It is the way the cloth is woven, the quality of the wool, and the manufacturing process that separates different brands and styles of cloth for a pool table.
Pool table cloth is generally referred to as either woolen or worsted cloth. These are two common types of wool yarn and both have specific characteristics that make them unique.
It is considerably less expensive, and most commonly found on home pool tables and on coin-operated tables that you find in many bars and recreational facilities. Billiard balls will generally roll much slower on woolen cloth.
Pilling, the shedding of the cloth into tiny little fuzzy bits, is common with this type of cloth, and therefore not allowed for use in any WPA sanctioned tournament. This type of cloth is usually recommended for casual play situations.
Worsted cloth is used primarily in professional tournaments, in pool rooms that host league and tournament play, and by discerning home owners looking for a high quality billiards gaming experience.
Worsted cloth is also referred to as speed cloth, since billiard balls will roll much faster on worsted cloth as compared to woolen cloth.
Because of a shearing and milling process used to produce the optimum playing surface, there is an "upside" and a "downside" to many brands of worsted cloth, with the down side being fuzzier than the side you will play on.
Worsted cloth generally doesn't "pill" like a woolen cloth will.
Because worsted pool table cloth is generally made from the best quality combed wool found in the world, and manufactured on highly specialized machinery built specifically to produce top quality billiards cloth, it is usually much more expensive than its woolen counterpart, but also delivers a much higher level of response for more consistent and accurate play.
The use of a "break pad" can help slow these burns, but will not prevent them entirely.
Burns and bruises, in and of themselves, are more aesthetic in the effect as they do not generally affect the actual playability of the cloth. In some brands of cloth however, these burns and bruises can develop into holes that will have an affect on how the cloth plays.
Picks and divots, most commonly found in worsted cloth, will also have a great affect on the playability of cloth since they can affect the roll of a ball.
Recovering your pool table is subjective, and dependent upon how often you play, how bothered you may be with any burns, bruises, picks, divots, and holes there are in your current cloth, and how much you want to invest in replacing it.
For more casual players, you will want to select a woolen blend like CHAMPIONSHIP INVITATIONAL pool table felt.
Carom cloth is usually a worsted cloth, but made even thinner to facilitate even more speed for the larger table and numerous bank shots required to score.
There are even some cloths being made that are produced from 100% polyester. We generally recommend not purchasing these for any use other than outdoor pool table as they are not made to billiard play specifications and have a tendency to wear out much quicker than cloth made specifically for use on billiard tables.
Pool table cloth is generally referred to as either woolen or worsted cloth. These are two common types of wool yarn and both have specific characteristics that make them unique.
The most common type of pool table felt is woolen cloth.
This is the "felt" than many people are familiar with. It is usually thick and heavy, comprised of at least 60% wool, and has that familiar "felt" feel when you touch it.It is considerably less expensive, and most commonly found on home pool tables and on coin-operated tables that you find in many bars and recreational facilities. Billiard balls will generally roll much slower on woolen cloth.
Pilling, the shedding of the cloth into tiny little fuzzy bits, is common with this type of cloth, and therefore not allowed for use in any WPA sanctioned tournament. This type of cloth is usually recommended for casual play situations.
The second type of pool table cloth is made from worsted wool.
This isn't "felt" at all, and feels more like a woven suit when you handle it. When you look closely, you can even see that actual weaves in the cloth.Worsted cloth is used primarily in professional tournaments, in pool rooms that host league and tournament play, and by discerning home owners looking for a high quality billiards gaming experience.
Worsted cloth is also referred to as speed cloth, since billiard balls will roll much faster on worsted cloth as compared to woolen cloth.
Because of a shearing and milling process used to produce the optimum playing surface, there is an "upside" and a "downside" to many brands of worsted cloth, with the down side being fuzzier than the side you will play on.
Worsted cloth generally doesn't "pill" like a woolen cloth will.
Because worsted pool table cloth is generally made from the best quality combed wool found in the world, and manufactured on highly specialized machinery built specifically to produce top quality billiards cloth, it is usually much more expensive than its woolen counterpart, but also delivers a much higher level of response for more consistent and accurate play.
All styles of pool table cloth will eventually show signs of use.
The most common are small white marks called burns (or bruises) that are a result of the heat produced from the friction of synthetic billiard balls burning the nylon or polyester content of cloth.The use of a "break pad" can help slow these burns, but will not prevent them entirely.
Burns and bruises, in and of themselves, are more aesthetic in the effect as they do not generally affect the actual playability of the cloth. In some brands of cloth however, these burns and bruises can develop into holes that will have an affect on how the cloth plays.
Picks and divots, most commonly found in worsted cloth, will also have a great affect on the playability of cloth since they can affect the roll of a ball.
Recovering your pool table is subjective, and dependent upon how often you play, how bothered you may be with any burns, bruises, picks, divots, and holes there are in your current cloth, and how much you want to invest in replacing it.
Choosing cloth for your table should be dictated by your budget and playing goals.
If you are a serious league/tournament player or simply want a premium playing experience for your billiards game room, we recommend buying a worsted cloth like these we offer from Strachan - SUPERPRO, ARTSCAPE,NCAAFor more casual players, you will want to select a woolen blend like CHAMPIONSHIP INVITATIONAL pool table felt.
There are other blends of cloth not very common in the market.
Snooker cloth is commonly referred to as "nap" cloth, meaning it is directional and the fibers of the cloth point in one direction. If you run your hand along the cloth towards the top of the table it feels smooth, however when you rub your hand in the opposite direction it feels rough. It is thick, heavy, and made from 100% wool.Carom cloth is usually a worsted cloth, but made even thinner to facilitate even more speed for the larger table and numerous bank shots required to score.
There are even some cloths being made that are produced from 100% polyester. We generally recommend not purchasing these for any use other than outdoor pool table as they are not made to billiard play specifications and have a tendency to wear out much quicker than cloth made specifically for use on billiard tables.
Thursday, 15 February 2018
POCKET BILLIARDS..
Pool, also more formally known as pocket billiards or pool billiards , is the family of cue sports and games played on a pool table having six receptacles called pockets along the rails, into which balls are deposited as the main goal of play. An obsolete term for pool is six-pocket.
There are hundreds of pool games. Some of the more well known include eight-ball (and the variant blackball), nine-ball (with variants ten-ball and seven-ball), straight pool, one-pocket and bank pool.
There are also hybrid games combining aspects of both pool and carom billiards, such as american four ball billiards, cowboy pool, and bottle pool
EIGHT-BALL:
In the United States, the most commonly played game is eight-ball. The goal of eight-ball, which is played with a full rack of fifteen balls and the cue ball, is to claim a suit (commonly stripes or solids in the US, and reds or yellows in the UK), pocket all of them, then legally pocket the 8 ball, while denying one's opponent opportunities to do the same with their suit, and without sinking the 8 ball early by accident. In the United Kingdom the game is commonly played in pubs, and it is competitively played in leagues on both sides of the Atlantic. The most prestigious tournaments including the World Open are sponsored and sanctioned by the International Pool Tour. Rules vary widely from place to place (and between continents to such an extent that British-style eight ball pool/blackpool is properly regarded as a separate game in its own right). Pool halls in North America are increasingly settling upon the world pool billiard association International Standardized Rules. But tavern eight-ball (also known as "bar pool"), typically played on smaller, coin-operated tables and in a "winner keeps the table" manner, can differ significantly even between two venues in the same city. The growth of local, regional and national amateur leagues may alleviate this confusion eventually.
NINE-BALL:
Nine-ball uses only the 1 through 9 balls and cue ball. It is a rotation game: The player at the table must make legal contact with the lowest numbered ball on the table or a foul is called. The game is won by legally pocketing the nine ball. Nine-ball is the predominant professional game, though as of 2006–2008 there have been some suggestions that this may change, in favor of ten ball. There are many local and regional tours and tournaments that are contested with nine-ball. The (WPA) and its American affiliate, the (BCA), publish the World Standardized Rules. The European professional circuit has instituted rules changes to make it more difficult to achieve a legal break shot.
The largest nine-ball tournaments are the independent U.S open nine ball championship and the world nine ball championship for men and women. Male professionals have a rather fragmented schedule of professional nine-ball tournaments. The (UPA) has been the most dominant association of the 1990s and 2000s. A hotly contested event is the annual mosconi cup, which pits invitational European and U.S. teams against each other in one-on-one and scoth doubles nine-ball matches over a period of several days. The Mosconi Cup games are played under the more stringent European rules, as of 2007.
TO BE CONTINUED...
Wednesday, 14 February 2018
SNOOKER/POOL/BILLIARDS CUE CHALK...
Chalk is applied to the tip of the cue stick, ideally before every shot, to increase the tip's friction coefficient so that when it impacts the cue ball on a non-center hit, no miscue (unintentional slippage between the cue tip and the struck ball) occurs. Cue tip chalk is not actually the substance typically referred to as "chalk" (generally calcium carbonate), but any of several proprietary compounds, with a silicate base. It was around the time of the Industrial Revolution that newer compounds formed that provided better grip for the ball. This is when the English began to experiment with side spin or applying curl to the ball. This was shortly introduced to the American players and is how the term "putting English on the ball" came to be. "Chalk" may also refer to a cone of fine, white hand chalk; like talc (talcum powder) it can be used to reduce friction between the cue and bridge hand during shooting, for a smoother stroke. Some brands of hand chalk actually are made of compressed talc. (Tip chalk is not used for this purpose because it is abrasive, hand-staining and difficult to apply.) Many players prefer a slick pool glove over hand chalk or talc because of the messiness of these powders; buildup of particles on the cloth will affect ball behavior and necessitate more-frequent cloth cleaning.
Cue tip chalk (invented in its modern form by straight rail billiard pro william A.spinks and chemist william hoskins in 1897) is made by crushing silica and the abrasive substance corundum or aloxite (aluminium oxide),into a powder. It is combined with dye (originally and most commonly green or blue-green, like traditional billiard cloth, but available today, like the cloth, in many colours) and a binder (glue). Each manufacturer's brand has different qualities, which can significantly affect play. High humidity can also impair the effectiveness of chalk. Harder, drier compounds are generally considered superior by most players.
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